Turning Point

Now that we have embarked on the second half of the trip, we thought we should spend a little time reflecting on the trip so far. Berlin makes for a perfect halfway point for our trip. It is known for being trapped between east and west, straddling two cultures. Within our trip it provides a center over which our trip can reflect. We began at the very edge of Europe, right at the border with Asia. Berlin marks the beginning of Western Europe and we will end our trip once again at the edge of Europe, the begining of Africa. 
As I write this we are sitting on a night bus on our way to Cologne and it feels a bit wrong. It’s in every way the opposite of how we have been traveling up until now and neither of us really likes it. Out the window all I see is black and even in the daylight it would be whizzing by at 120 km/hr. Tonight we will cover the same distance we would normally ride in a bit over two weeks. It’s a bit hard to imagine really. We won’t meet anyone, we won’t have any stories and we won’t see much, even if we look. This isn’t to say traveling by bus or train is so terrible, it’s certainly not and is necessary for us to do what we want to do but after the first half it is really different. I can speak for both of us in saying that we have enjoyed traveling by bike even more than we imagined. Sure, it’s hard at times and were often tired at the end of the day but there is nothing else that can really compare. It’s an awesome feeling to look at a map and be able to trace from Istanbul to Berlin through all the countryside and small towns and have a memory for each place. What it looked like, how the weather was that day, people who live there, what it smelled like; every detail is there for as long as you can hold on to it. 

The cities we’ve been to have been amazing. The architecture, history and  sites to see are really really cool but without the people you meet any city could be just about anywhere. Of course they are differnt and have their history but you don’t get a sense of what a country is without getting to talk to people who live there. We have been lucky enough to meet some really incredible people along the way. People have graciously invited us into their home, talked with us, given us great tips on where to go and what to see and through all of this taught us what it means to be from the place they are from. Our gratitude for all these interactions, small or large, is more than we can write. It’s been the trip of a lifetime already and we are only halfway done. 

In the past 6 weeks we have also learned a lot about how to travel and how to do so by bike. We joked the other day that this trip is really just a trip to learn how to travel, but it has a lot of truth to it. (My mother will be beaming as she reads this as I suppose it proves she has been right all along) We have both learned to really put ourselves out there as a result of this trip. Before we left I would never have felt comfortable greeting a random stranger who may or may not speak the same language as me and asking if it would be ok for us to set up our tent and sleep in their yard. These days it’s a pretty regular thing. And even more surprising is how positive the response tends to be. More often than not people go out of their way to help us. It doesn’t matter if they know exactly what we are saying or we know what they are saying. The majority of people are really good people. 
I would imagine a lot of people are wondering how Autumn and I are doing after spending 6 weeks being constantly together. I can tell you it’s pretty rough to be stuck with her allllll the time. (We figured a week ago that we probably haven’t spent more than 2 hours apart since the trip started) It seems pretty overwhelming but really it’s not to bad. We have 5 hours a day on the bike usually and don’t have to spend the whole time interacting. We spend enough time in our own heads just thinking or relaxing that we get along just fine most of the time. Sure we get in some fights but honestly a lot fewer than you would imagine after spending so long around someone. It’s actually been really nice to be traveling together. We spend a lot of time solidifying our thoughts by bouncing them back and forth. Autumn says that she sees the things that keep us entertained and I see the things that keep us alive. It’s a good balance really. Often it works out well that we think really differently as our skill sets don’t overlap too much and we can acomplish a lot of things. 
We are really going to miss traveling almost exclusively by bike (I promise, Autumn said so too) and the experiences that come with it but we are really looking forward to the rest of the trip. Lots more great places to go and tons of people out there to meet. As always, if you know someone where we are headed who might want to meet up let us know!

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    3 thoughts on “Turning Point”

    1. Yes to it all…I have toured well over 10,000 miles since 2010…started to celebrate my 60th birthday, so a little bit older than you guys 😉 It is the people…whenever anyone asks what makes it all so compelling that is my answer. Nothing like the people you meet and the interactions. It is such fun to read your posts and this one is the best yet. Congratulations on lives well lived. c

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    2. you are learning that the best part of traveling is not necessarily the places you go but the people you meet and share time with along the way. One of the most magical parts for me always…

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    3. C.P. Cavafy, “Ithaka”

      As you set out for Ithaka
      hope the voyage is a long one,
      full of adventure, full of discovery.
      Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
      angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:
      you’ll never find things like that on your way
      as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
      as long as a rare excitement
      stirs your spirit and your body.
      Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
      wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them
      unless you bring them along inside your soul,
      unless your soul sets them up in front of you.

      Hope the voyage is a long one.
      May there be many a summer morning when,
      with what pleasure, what joy,
      you come into harbors seen for the first time;
      may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
      to buy fine things,
      mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
      sensual perfume of every kind—
      as many sensual perfumes as you can;
      and may you visit many Egyptian cities
      to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars.

      Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
      Arriving there is what you are destined for.
      But do not hurry the journey at all.
      Better if it lasts for years,
      so you are old by the time you reach the island,
      wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
      not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.

      Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.
      Without her you would not have set out.
      She has nothing left to give you now.

      And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.
      Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
      you will have understood by then what these Ithakas mean.

      Translated by Edmund Keeley/Philip Sherrard

      (C.P. Cavafy, Collected Poems. Translated by Edmund Keeley and Philip Sherrard. Edited by George Savidis. Revised Edition. Princeton University Press, 1992)

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